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{"id":1634,"date":"2020-06-27T13:30:43","date_gmt":"2020-06-27T17:30:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/frommyfarmtable.com\/?p=1634"},"modified":"2020-06-27T13:38:28","modified_gmt":"2020-06-27T17:38:28","slug":"how-to-build-a-garbage-can-enclosure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/frommyfarmtable.com\/how-to-build-a-garbage-can-enclosure\/","title":{"rendered":"How to build a Garbage Can Enclosure"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"how<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

YUCK!!! I mean who really wants to look at their garbage cans? They’re dirty, ugly and they stink! This is a simple project that will last for years, and trust me, you will not regret it. Adding a garbage can enclosure will give you a place store store your stinky trash as well as beautify the yard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here is what I was looking at before the fence. I’ve got my AC unit, trash and recycling cans, the electrical panel, and the tankless water heater. Oh, and then there’s just the other junk that tends to gather in an area like this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"building<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Start by figuring out what you want in terms of size and height for your garbage enclosure. Because of my windows, I didn’t want anything too tall. I also knew that I wanted to end right after the water heater (which you can’t see because of the tree).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Decide that type of material you want to use. Fence panels come in vinyl and wood. They also come in heights of 6 ft and 4 ft. I went with wood dog eared panels, mainly because I wanted to stain them. Since my house is already white, I didn’t want more white vinyl. I also felt that the wood would be a little more rustic and in character with my house. The problem was that 4 ft was too short and 6 ft was too tall. So I ended up purchasing 6 ft panels and cutting them down to 5 ft. This way, they cover the trash cans, but aren’t the first thing you see when you look out of the kitchen windows.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next up, I started laying out my posts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Laying<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You need to think about your gate and where that will go. In the picture above, I am planning where the post will go to mount the gate to. I wanted a larger gate, because the trash cans are big and I just felt it would be easier to maneuver them in and out. So I planned on a 4 ft gate. However, what you need to consider is the fence panels, and where it makes sense to cut them vertically, before you set your post. My gate actually ended up being 49 1\/2 inches because of the pickets. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"fence<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

AND, don’t forget to allow for the hinges! You need some space for the gate to swing and not bind up the hinges. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also, when planning where your posts are going to go, you need to figure that each panel needs to attach to the post. So each post will have two fence panels diving the post in half. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"installing<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Setting<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Now I’ve got my posts in place. I used quick set concrete and dug down three feet. Here in the south, that’s plenty deep based on our frost line, or lack there of. You may need to go a bit further if you feel its necessary. Since we used the quick setting concrete, we leveled and stabilized the posts, but it wasn’t necessary to use 2×4’s to support them while they dried since it set up so quickly. I let these cure overnight and the the next evening, we got to installing the fence panels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"installing<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I installed the panels using exterior screws that were 3 inches long, and I went through the horizontal board that is on the panel and into the post.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After I attached my panels to the post, and then went back and added an extra 2×4 across the top and attached it to the post as well and then added more screws to the panel, securing them to that additional support. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P.S. make sure your panels are level, even if your ground isn’t! My yard slopes a bit, but the top of the garbage enclosure is nice and straight and level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I left the gate off for now, and also left the posts longer than I need them to be. Once we got all the panels installed, I used a reciprocating saw to cut them down. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now for the gate. This is a two person job because you need someone to hold it so you can then make sure its level. But first you need to make sure the gate is strong and won’t sag. Trust me, even if you think you built the most perfect gate for your garbage enclosure, it will sag over time. And when the gate is 49 1\/2 inches, like mine, then it sags sooner rather than later!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They sell an inexpensive no sag gate kit at Lowe’s for under $13.00 and that is definitely the way to go! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.lowes.com\/pd\/National-Hardware-8-5-in-Zinc-Gate-Hardware-Kit\/50414128<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"No<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You can adjust if if need be over time. I also had previously added L Brackets to support the corners. But the true winner here is that cable and turnbuckle that came in the kit. My gate had seriously started to sag from its weight in a VERY short amount of time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Once you are all installed you can paint or stain your enclosure. I chose to use an exterior, semi-transparent stain from Valspar that seals and stains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.lowes.com\/pd\/Valspar-Tintable-Neutral-Base-Semi-transparent-Exterior-Stain-and-Sealer-Actual-Net-Contents-116-fl-oz\/1000515833<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The color I chose is Monticello Tan and I used a sprayer to apply it. The fence panels are sort of rough, so a brush was really taking a beating, and I was using more stain than I wanted to, so the sprayer really did the trick!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I did a second coat because, as you can see it was a bit splotchy. But after evening it out with a second coat, it looks great.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Add a cute gate latch and you’re all set!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I mean, come on now: look at this difference!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n